Long sandy beaches, pretty plazas, designer shops and tantalisingly wealthy young things all sizzle in the summer sun of Punta del Este but come with a hefty price tag.
A beer at a bar in Punta can cost more than a night’s accommodation in any other South American country and during high season (December to March) prices are at a premium.
A black hole in the credit crunch universe, luxury apartments are still being built across the peninsular and with demand increasing the popularity of the city doesn’t look set to wane anytime soon.
Full of rich Argentineans, blinging Brazilians, moneyed Mexicans, wealthy Europeans and the occasional lost Uruguayan, Punta del Este is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the continent.
If you want to see wh
at all the fuss is about but can’t afford the bar bill stay in neighbouring Maldonado, fill up on the cheap chivitos and enjoy the pretty beaches while splashing out on the odd party.
The city
Punta del Este sits on a peninsular where the Atlantic Ocean and Rio de la Plata meet. The river side on the west provides tranquil bathing beaches of Playa Mansa and the sea side on the east creates attractive surf and party beaches of Playa Brava and infamous Bikini Beach.
Filled in between the two coasts are trendy boutiques, over-priced restaurants, outrageous apartments and possibly the most beautiful McDonalds in the world.
Famed for its nightlife, most of the action in Punta happens in La Barra – a neighbourhood joined by an attractive bridge just off the peninsula. La Barra’s restaurants, bars and clubs pull in thousands of young people every night and make it popular with travellers who fancy an indulgent and expensive break from the usual cheap lager and table wine.
If you want to see Punta in its full ‘glory’ (and for free) visit the Conrad. This huge zoo-like hotel is full of minor celebrities, surgery sculpted oldies, tasteless tourists and serious gamblers who come for the fashion shows, free toilets and large casino. Sit wide-eyed in the Casino watching men hand over thousands of dollars for a few plastic chips while their wives (or otherwise) kick back mulling over a drink and their new diamond from neighbouring Tiffany’s.
Beyond the bling
There are however some real gems in Punta del Este. This is still Uruguay and rich culture and interesting architecture are just about visible under the big signs and multicoloured lights.
The large hand buried in the sand on Playa Brava is one of the most recognisable images of the city but nearby Casapueblo on Punta Ballena is one of the biggest architectural draws. This hotel/restaurant/gallery was designed by local artist Carlos Paez Vilaro and is a surrealist’s wet dream with curvy, white, labyrinthine hotel rooms dripping over the cliff side. The night view from Punta Ballena looking at the bright lights of Punta del Este is also worth the trip.
Back in the city the harbour is a nice spot to visit so long as you can handle boat envy. Luxury yachts and boats bobbing along at sunset make great photos but make sure you cast your eye over the dry land beside the harbour where local fisherman sell their catch at bargain prices.
For culture, the city hosts regular free exhibitions and artisan fairs (visit the cultural centre and Plaza Artigas).
Maldonado
To escape the inflated prices and see how the real locals live, visit Maldonado. A city tucked closely behind Punta with an attractive square (Plaza Maldonado), affordable bars and restaurants, a humble cathedral and full of normal looking people, Maldonado makes for a nice change.
It has a small town feel and hosts a big Sunday market and also South America’s most popular red light district.
A world away
Punta del Este comes as a complete shock travelling from any direction. It is a world away from some of its less developed neighbours and more closely resembles St Tropez than any other coast destination in Uruguay. It will cost you, but if you want a peek into South America’s playboy playground, Punta is worth every penny.
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