And here´s my article on Montevideo...
Quirky architecture, the longest Carnival in the world and cider throwing fights; it is surprising that Montevideo does not figure its way onto more travellers’ itineraries. The capital of Uruguay, Montevideo is probably the most relaxed capital in South America and with minimal crime and special tourist police, probably the safest. Sadly it also the most expensive. The capital is sure to pull at the purse strings although this is no reason to skip out it completely just budget along the way.
The city
Snuggled between South American heavyweights Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay is still relatively untapped by tourists and a haven for those who want to escape any hassle.
Montevideo houses almost half of Uruguay’s population but still retains a small city feel with people greeting each other in the streets and cars stopping for you to cross the road. It is a pleasure to walk around with traffic at a minimum (rush hour is laughable compared to nearby Buenos Aires) and the centre is reasonably compact.
Cuidad Vieja is usually the first port of call for visitors and its dilapidated colonial houses lack the charm of Colonia but still warrant a stroll around and are pleasantly punctuated by lea
fy green plazas and interesting museums.
Nearby Mercado del Puerto is no longer used as a market but instead boasts a handful of restaurants with steaming parillas (BBQs) and a lively crowd of tourists and locals.
‘Centro’, a busy commercial district, is dominated by bustling Avenida 18 de Julio and feels like a real smoggy city (at least for a block or two) but there are still little gems on the Avenida including the Fuente de los Candados (fountain of locks) where lovers inscribe their initials on padlocks and symbolically secure them and their love to the fountain.
Most people visit Centro for its discount shops and bookstores (although discount in Uruguay can be reasonably pricey). However if you are in need of some cheaper retail therapy look no further than the Sunday market on Tristan Narvaja Street (the largest flea market in South America) where they flog everything from clothes to thermos flasks. The twice-weekly food markets can also make your peso stretch a bit further.
A visit into the city centre is not complete without admiring the eclectic mix of architecture. With influences from all parts of Europe the architecture varies from neoclassical mansions to obscure art deco office blocks. Building regulations are minimal in Uruguay and even in rural areas you will see a diverse mix of houses with each owner creating their own wild architectural fantasy. In the centre you are unlikely to miss Palacio Salvo, a quirky skyscraper in Plaza Independencia that still dominates the skyline.
Rio de la Plata has a strong presence in the city and one of the most popular pastimes is strolling down the Ramblas with mate (herb tea) and thermos flask in hand. The beach at middle-class barrio Pocitos is the best in the city with picturesque palm trees and nice bars more closely resembling Miami or Rio than the rather less tasteful city beach set against the backdrop of a run-down fairground.
However for lazing about in the sun some of the parks are more tranquil. Parque Rodo is worth a visit, and if not for its landscaping for the occasional late night raves.
The culture
Montevideans enjoy a high quality of life (comparative to the rest of the continent) and the rich culture reflects this. With hundreds of theatres (including world renowned Teatro Solis), uncountable live music venues and the longest carnival in the world (lasting over a month) you are never short of something to do in Montevideo.
During Carnival the city really kicks into cultural sixth gear with daily candombe (an African drum-based music) and murga (musical theatre) shows.
Locals say tango originated on the streets of Montevideo (visit legendary Baar Fun Fun which has free entrance some nights) and music and dance are integral to the fabric of the city all year long.
The people
Well educated and highly cultured, most Montevideans are friendly, easy going and can usually hold a pretty sophisticated conversation in English. A breeding place for writers, artists and musicians, the city attracts a bohemian crowd as well as thousands of workers and students from all over the country.
Although the city folk tend to work hard, they always play hard. Young Montevideans know how to party with the best of them, spilling out of the bars (visit Cuidadela street) and clubs until dawn before heading home for a shower, refill of mate and off to work.
Most young people here tend not to drink themselves to oblivion like some other nations (the relatively high prices might have something to do with it) but rather enjoy a few beers or glasses of tannat (the local red wine) interspersed with a sip from their physically conjoined holster of mate.
Not all past times are highly civilised though and at least twice a year you will see the Montevideans somewhat worse for wear - Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve being a prime example when the city gathers for the ‘Guerra del sidra’ at Mercado del Puerto. The ritualistic cider-throwing orgy sees thousands of locals (young and old) throw cheap cider and subsequently empty plastic bottles at each other for hours of childish fun.
On New Year’s Eve the white collared workers heighten the madness by throwing a shower of torn-up calendars out of office windows onto the sticky, steaming, cider-soaked crowds below. Don’t expect to leave without being completely drenched, drunk and enamoured.
In fact, don’t expect to leave Montevideo without feeling intoxicated by this culturally vibrant and fun city.
Quirky architecture, the longest Carnival in the world and cider throwing fights; it is surprising that Montevideo does not figure its way onto more travellers’ itineraries. The capital of Uruguay, Montevideo is probably the most relaxed capital in South America and with minimal crime and special tourist police, probably the safest. Sadly it also the most expensive. The capital is sure to pull at the purse strings although this is no reason to skip out it completely just budget along the way.
The city
Snuggled between South American heavyweights Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay is still relatively untapped by tourists and a haven for those who want to escape any hassle.
Montevideo houses almost half of Uruguay’s population but still retains a small city feel with people greeting each other in the streets and cars stopping for you to cross the road. It is a pleasure to walk around with traffic at a minimum (rush hour is laughable compared to nearby Buenos Aires) and the centre is reasonably compact.
Cuidad Vieja is usually the first port of call for visitors and its dilapidated colonial houses lack the charm of Colonia but still warrant a stroll around and are pleasantly punctuated by lea
fy green plazas and interesting museums.Nearby Mercado del Puerto is no longer used as a market but instead boasts a handful of restaurants with steaming parillas (BBQs) and a lively crowd of tourists and locals.
‘Centro’, a busy commercial district, is dominated by bustling Avenida 18 de Julio and feels like a real smoggy city (at least for a block or two) but there are still little gems on the Avenida including the Fuente de los Candados (fountain of locks) where lovers inscribe their initials on padlocks and symbolically secure them and their love to the fountain.
Most people visit Centro for its discount shops and bookstores (although discount in Uruguay can be reasonably pricey). However if you are in need of some cheaper retail therapy look no further than the Sunday market on Tristan Narvaja Street (the largest flea market in South America) where they flog everything from clothes to thermos flasks. The twice-weekly food markets can also make your peso stretch a bit further.
A visit into the city centre is not complete without admiring the eclectic mix of architecture. With influences from all parts of Europe the architecture varies from neoclassical mansions to obscure art deco office blocks. Building regulations are minimal in Uruguay and even in rural areas you will see a diverse mix of houses with each owner creating their own wild architectural fantasy. In the centre you are unlikely to miss Palacio Salvo, a quirky skyscraper in Plaza Independencia that still dominates the skyline.
Rio de la Plata has a strong presence in the city and one of the most popular pastimes is strolling down the Ramblas with mate (herb tea) and thermos flask in hand. The beach at middle-class barrio Pocitos is the best in the city with picturesque palm trees and nice bars more closely resembling Miami or Rio than the rather less tasteful city beach set against the backdrop of a run-down fairground.
However for lazing about in the sun some of the parks are more tranquil. Parque Rodo is worth a visit, and if not for its landscaping for the occasional late night raves.
The culture
Montevideans enjoy a high quality of life (comparative to the rest of the continent) and the rich culture reflects this. With hundreds of theatres (including world renowned Teatro Solis), uncountable live music venues and the longest carnival in the world (lasting over a month) you are never short of something to do in Montevideo.
During Carnival the city really kicks into cultural sixth gear with daily candombe (an African drum-based music) and murga (musical theatre) shows.
Locals say tango originated on the streets of Montevideo (visit legendary Baar Fun Fun which has free entrance some nights) and music and dance are integral to the fabric of the city all year long.
The people
Well educated and highly cultured, most Montevideans are friendly, easy going and can usually hold a pretty sophisticated conversation in English. A breeding place for writers, artists and musicians, the city attracts a bohemian crowd as well as thousands of workers and students from all over the country.
Although the city folk tend to work hard, they always play hard. Young Montevideans know how to party with the best of them, spilling out of the bars (visit Cuidadela street) and clubs until dawn before heading home for a shower, refill of mate and off to work.
Most young people here tend not to drink themselves to oblivion like some other nations (the relatively high prices might have something to do with it) but rather enjoy a few beers or glasses of tannat (the local red wine) interspersed with a sip from their physically conjoined holster of mate.
Not all past times are highly civilised though and at least twice a year you will see the Montevideans somewhat worse for wear - Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve being a prime example when the city gathers for the ‘Guerra del sidra’ at Mercado del Puerto. The ritualistic cider-throwing orgy sees thousands of locals (young and old) throw cheap cider and subsequently empty plastic bottles at each other for hours of childish fun.
On New Year’s Eve the white collared workers heighten the madness by throwing a shower of torn-up calendars out of office windows onto the sticky, steaming, cider-soaked crowds below. Don’t expect to leave without being completely drenched, drunk and enamoured.
In fact, don’t expect to leave Montevideo without feeling intoxicated by this culturally vibrant and fun city.
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